Wow, it's been a while since I have been at the keyboard. Much has happened, and there is much to talk about.
So remember when I said that I was sure I was destined to be stuck in the world of "foamies" due to budget constraints? And, remember how I said that joining a flying club was an awesome thing because of all the great guys you meet who help you out along the way? Well, these two realities converged for me late in August when I was approached by one of the club members with an offer I couldn't refuse. He said he had an older plane that he had hanging in his garage that he never flew, but had been a tried and true "friend" for many years, and would I be interested in it if he gave it to me? It is a Sig "Somethin Extra" 40 class nitro plane...stable as a rock, but sporty too! There was only one problem...it didn't have an engine. Well not a month later, another member came to me and said he had watched me flying, had a box of stuff he was clearing out and wondered if I would like it. In the box was an engine, a starter, and some other miscellaneous parts!
I called the first guy to tell him I had an engine, and the next thing I knew the "Gang" convened in his garage to install the engine and get the bird ready!
No, it wasn't a warbird, and no, it wasn't electric, but I figured the price was right. One thing I began to notice right away was that there was a whole new world of accessories that were required for these gas planes! There was an ignitor, starter, battery for the starter, fuel, a fueling pump and system (hoses running the excess fuel back into the container), and once we realized there was all this stuff, then a "flight box" to store it in and bring it all to the flight line!
This was the perfect bird for me to make the transition on. It is so forgiving, and yet has a lot of spunk and ability to fly a variety of maneuvers. At first I was petrified. But soon I came to appreciate what many had told me from the beginning...that gas/nitro planes are more stable in flight. They are less "twitchy" than the foamies, and due to their weight and size, they are much less sensitive to the wind issue. I found landings were quite an easy transition (largely due to the incredible flight characteristics of the plane) and the length of flight time, combined with the sense of infinite availability of high throttle, climbing rate, and again, stability in high winds, was just a pure joy.
As with the foamies and my first flying experiences, every outing was an incredible learning curve. First, there was the issue of the pre-flight checklist, a much more extensive process. The on-board battery that controls the surfaces had to be properly charged, and since it was a NiCad, that was a new set of charging rates and settings on my charger. Then there was the portable watt meter for the flight box to verify that I had enough battery left as I began to experiment with how many flights I could get out of the battery. As with my LiPos, you don't want to exceed 80% of the capacity, so I would watch the amount of volts that it took to recharge after a series of flights.
Next there was learning the adjustment of the carburetor needle. This was something I had seen many of the gas pilots doing all the time, but didn't appreciate at the time. It is just like the adjustment of an auto carburetor...you want the proper ratio of air and fuel, and this can change with temperature and weather conditions. I learned there was a low end, and a high end adjustment, and found out the hard way that it is best to leave the low end pretty much at the recommended setting, and then focus on just the high end. The process is one of turning the needle clockwise one click at a time to lean the mixture while at high throttle, until the optimal power is achieved ( a technique of learning to discern by hearing). Then richen the mixture (counter-clockwise) by about 3 clicks (1/4 turn) to account for the engine's response when fully warmed and running at altitude. A final check to verify the proper adjustment is to hold the plane in a vertical attitude at full throttle, and verify that the engine will not begin to cut out. Finally, check your low end setting by going from idle to full throttle and back to verify the transition is smooth. A rough transition is when you know you have some adjusting of the low end needle to do.
Fueling is another new experience! Certainly not as simple as plugging in a battery and going! This plane had a series of tubes that allowed for access under the fuselage, but that meant that the line to the carburetor would have to be pinched off while the fuel was pumped to the tank, So a set of hemostats did the job, and once the fuel came out the line going the muffler (are you still with me?) then I knew there was a full tank, and I could re-attach the line to the muffler and undo the hemostats. At least twice I have forgotten to reattach the line to the muffler, which meant that I was able to take off only to have the plane die, and I would have to come in "dead stick" before I realized my error!
With the plane fueled, and the battery charged, my radio on, and the on-board power on, I was ready to start up! The ignitor is attached to the tip of the piston to what is called a "glow plug" and serves the same purpose as a spark plug. The starter, which is powered by a 12 volt battery, is a rubber cone that is placed over the spinner of the prop, and when turned on, turns the prop until the engine catches. At this point the ignitor can be removed (gingerly, as the spinning prop is like being around a loaded handgun for the first time! I later had a close brush with the prop, forgetting it was even there, and the results were devastatingly quick and lethal!). And now you are finally ready to take the plane to the taxi area and approach the runway! As I said, nothing like plugging in a battery, testing the control surfaces, and taking off!
So what has all this meant? Well, I have to say, after about 7 hours (42 flights plus or minus) I am a total convert! The flying experience is so much richer! I love the sense of unlimited vertical, the almost complete neutralizing of the wind issues (I was flying in 10-15 mile and hour winds the other day, and successfully at that) and yes, all the little complications that make getting the plane ready a pain, are actually strangely challenging! One of the reasons it has been a while since I wrote last is that the Ultra Coat on the tail section was coming off due to all the fuel over the years. My friends suggested it would be a good opportunity to learn that art of covering. That will have to be a topic for another time, but I confess that the "builder" in me does get a charge out of seeing something come together and work!
Yup, it's official. I'll still take my Thunderbolt out before work in the mornings, and yes, it is spoiling to just throw in a battery and go. But I look forward so much more now to getting to the field with a full bottle of fuel, and getting in a solid hour on the Extra. I am officially hooked on nitro! Someday I hope to get a 40 class warbird, but right now I have all I can handle to get my skills honed, and I am so blessed that a few guys decided to give me the various pieces and parts that got me to this level of the hobby!
November 10, 2013
September 8, 2013
Repairs:The Art Of Gluing
As I have said many times, I have spent years building static, plastic model kits. When I was a kid I would look at magazines and admire the incredible realism of what the "pros" turned out. I looked forward to the day when I would eventually have an air brush, and really get the true look that could fade from lower camouflage to upper, and was without visible brush strokes. Years later, as an adult with a workshop in my garage, that wish came true, and soon I was into all kinds of techniques for adding rivots, weathering, and obtaining custom decals to get the exact squadron I wanted. It got to the point where I was spending a year to 2 years to complete a model, and as I said, that was when I suddenly realized there had to be a way to get closer to flying without so many hours spent on something that ended up on a shelf. But, those skills have come into play in the RC world! THERE"S NO WAY TO AVOID CRASHING, and the repairs can be relatively easy, and made to look almost indiscernible with some simple techniques.
CA glues come in different viscosities, and should be FOAM SAFE. There are no doubt many brands, but the one I have latched onto I got at my local hobby store. The black cap is a thicker glue, as I found the thin was too runny and just got out of control and all over everything! CA glue is very fast acting...you usually have just a matter of seconds to position something before it sets. They are very effective for thin cracks, thin parts (especially micro planes), or areas that you want a relatively brittle adhesive, as I descibed in an earlier blog on my first crash. I used epoxy to glue a balsa plate to the wing, and then used CA to glue the plastic landing gear mount to the balsa. The net effect is that when stress occurred, the CA is would be more likely to break away from the balsa, while the balsa remained intact to the wing. So if after a crash, there is a crack in the wing or fuselage that is not wide enough to pry apart for the application of epoxy, then you can drip the CA into the crack, it will spread somewhat, and then with pressure you will be good to go in a minute or two.
So in conclusion, remember...crashes are inevitable! Nobody is immune, so don't be surprised, or disappointed (even though you will anyway) when they happen. But foam planes are relatively easy to repair, and you can good at getting them close to their original look and flying just as well as before, in no time. When you do, you'll start playing with doing cosmetic things to enhance the look of your model. But if you do, don't get sucked into the trap of feeling like now you can't fly the plane without a knot in your stomach over what will happen if you crash and wreck all your work! Everybody agrees, it's almost a good thing when you have your first crash, because then you can feel free to go ahead and have fun flying without worrying about messing up a pristine plane!
So for our purposes now, let's stay in the world I was in as a beginner, that of foam planes. One of their advantages is that they are easy and inexpensive to repair, and the results can be quite satisfying as far as their ability to keep flying without major problems in the air. There are two types of glues that you will want to get familiar with...the CA type (cynoacrylates, commonly known as "super glues") and epoxies.
CA glues come in different viscosities, and should be FOAM SAFE. There are no doubt many brands, but the one I have latched onto I got at my local hobby store. The black cap is a thicker glue, as I found the thin was too runny and just got out of control and all over everything! CA glue is very fast acting...you usually have just a matter of seconds to position something before it sets. They are very effective for thin cracks, thin parts (especially micro planes), or areas that you want a relatively brittle adhesive, as I descibed in an earlier blog on my first crash. I used epoxy to glue a balsa plate to the wing, and then used CA to glue the plastic landing gear mount to the balsa. The net effect is that when stress occurred, the CA is would be more likely to break away from the balsa, while the balsa remained intact to the wing. So if after a crash, there is a crack in the wing or fuselage that is not wide enough to pry apart for the application of epoxy, then you can drip the CA into the crack, it will spread somewhat, and then with pressure you will be good to go in a minute or two. |
| Plastic plate on top of balsa |
Now an important companion to CA glue is a "setter", or accelerant. This spray will instantly set the CA so there is literally no waiting time, and no need to steady the parts being glued. That can be good news or bad news. If you are completely confident that you can place the two parts together, without hesitation as to the need to align the angle, or adjust the fit, then the strongest approach is to spray one piece with the setter, and then apply CA to the other piece, and touch them together. They will bond instantly. A more common approach would be to use the CA, whether in a crack, or on two pieces, and then when you are confident that all is well, spray,(or have someone as a second set of hands do it) the joint. This will bond any exposed part of your repair, holding it firmly in place, and then you will want to give an additional few minutes for the unexposed portion to adhere. It doesn't take any quantity at all....just a "spritz" and you will see that the liquid is on the joint, and that will be enough.
Now epoxy is a different beast. It comes in two parts, the glue and the hardener, and you can get it in pairs with different curing times. I use the 5 minute, but I confess there have been times when I was applying a large amount of glue to a large area, and I ran out of time as the glue was setting faster than I could apply it. The next step up is 15 minute, and it would be prudent to have some of each. Epoxy has to be mixed, so I keep my boxes that my planes came in, and cut the cardboard into squares as need, using the slick side as the side I mix on. Epoxy is a much more permanent bond, and especially good for larger repairs. If you tore off a wing (as I have), or broke a fuselage (as I have), these are the types that epoxy is great for. I apply it generously, and as I said you will have time to adjust your pieces, and wipe off excess (although as the glue begins to get tacky you have to be careful not to use paper products that will stick to the glue and make a mess of your repair). My hobby store has a great little product that is a little brush on a stick that I can mix the glues with and then scoop the glue and apply it where I want it. It is called Ultrabrush and comes in packs of 10 or so.
The great thing about epoxy is that once it hardens, you can sand it and sculpt it to fill in dings and smooth the repair itself. So knowing that, I apply epoxy generously, and then go back afterward and sand away the excess with the hope of restoring the original shape and intergrity. If the epoxy has not set, you can wipe away the excess with 90% isopropyl alcohol, but be advised, it might take some of the paint! Once hardened, if it's a large amount of glue that has to be removed, I begin with a Dremmel tool and a sanding drum to take away the biggest portion. Then I use finer wet/dry sandpapers in the 200, 400 and 600 grits, working from the coarser to the finer to get the smoothest finish. The epoxy will get into panel lines, and there's nothing you can do about that, but it can be very helpful in filling divots of missing foam, say in a leading edge of a wing. I have also taken foam from the box the plane came in, cut and sculpted pieces of foam that fit a large hole of missing foam in the plane, used CA to glue the piece in, and then used a smaller amount of epoxy to smooth the finished product.
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| exterior-fuselage completely severed |
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| interior showing same break |
When sanding, you just have to watch that you are sanding the glue and not straying off onto the foam, or obviously you will be tearing up the foam. This is particularly true with the Dremmel. The only downside to large quantities of epoxy is that large quantities can add weight, and when you are done you should check the center of gravity from both the wing roots, but also from the propeller to the rudder, and then make any adjustments accordingly. On the P-47 repair you see above (in silver) I had lost both wing tips as the plane caught some protective plastic netting, and sheared the first wing tip, spun the pane around and damaged the other. After my repairs I determined the COG was off, with one wing heavier than the other, so I found some metal dowel, drilled a hole into the wing tip exactly in line with the COG on the wing root, and then when I was satisfied with the balance, I covered the hole, with the dowel inside, with epoxy.
The last phase is the cosmetic cover-up, and that is where having an air brush is handy. I always used Testor's model paints, in enamel, and I just like the way they thinned and worked in my air brush better than acrylics. Enamels are thinner based and acrylics are water based, but to my surprise I have never had any problems with the enamels affecting the foam. I also always finish with a couple of coats of Glosscote, which seals the plane, and gives it a better, more scale appearance of a slightly metallic nature.
If you want to really get into "weathering" your plane, there are washes you can swipe in that give the oily effect (they run into the panel lines, and accentuate them nicely) and you can add rivots using fine point sharpies in either black or silver.
The last option you can explore are custom decals. I have discovered a great source for warbirds at Callie Graphics (www.callie-graphics .com). They are different than the type I was used to with plastic models....they are more like a tape than a decal, but they can go on wet or dry (I recommend wet, as you will want the second, third and fourth chances to get it right) and it is fun to have something unique that nobody else has. Here's my customized thunderbolt compared to the original.
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| The original Park Zone "Raging Bull" |
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| the "No Guts No Glory" version |
September 2, 2013
Batteries: Lots To Learn
So if I was not qualified to talk about aeronautics in my post "Driving Versus Flying", I am even less qualified to talk about electricity. I know enough to know that when you throw a light switch something comes on, and that's about it! Which, I would imagine, describes a lot of you who are just getting into RC airplanes...you want to learn about planes, not electricity, right? And yet, since we fly electric planes, suddenly we are confronted with volts, and amps and mAh (milliamp hours), and C ratings and connector types that read like alphabet soup, and battery types like lithium polymer, nickel cadmium, and on and on. It's overwhelming to guys like me that know nothing about electricity BUT YOU NEED A BATTERY TO FLY THE STINKING PLANE!
So, here's what I do know. As I said, I have Park Zone warbirds, and they all fly on 11.1 volt, 3 cell, 2200 mAh, LiPo (lithium polymer) batteries (actually, my original planes came with 1800 mAh, but my most recent plane, the Thunderbolt P-47, came with a 2200). Lithium polymer batteries are the type that most foamies use. The ones that came with the plane were 25C rated, which, when I asked the guys at the hobby store, has something to do with the volume of electricity that can be released in bursts when needed. The higher the C rating, the more energy can be released. The batteries I had were fine, but being a guy who wants to have the best of everything I opted for 30C batteries after that, and have been happy.
Now there are a lot of battery brands out there, and I found that our local hobby store didn't have much on hand. I'm guessing they decided they couldn't compete with the online market, which are almost exclusively made in China. What little they did have were very expensive.
So then I researched brands by looking at chat groups like www.rcgroups.com, and checking out recommended sites for batteries and accessories like Hobby Partz (www.hobbypartz.com) and Hobby King (www.hobbyking.com). I'm sure there are a million sites and brands and the best suggestion I can make is to talk to those who fly a lot and get their recommendations. Nothing beats real endorsements from those who fly and recharge a lot of batteries.
Price is not always a way to determine anything....cheap batteries can have good reputations and expensive batteries can be lousy. I personally have settled on Gens Ace as a battery I have had good success with and it is the middle price point at around $26 from Hobby Partz. I also hear good things about Turnigy, have a couple that have worked well so far, and you can get those at Hobby King for about $12.
Another thing to consider is the connector type. There seems to be no agreement as to a standard connector for ESC's (the electronic speed controller your battery connects to which then connects to the motor) and the manufacturers of batteries. So again, not being inclined toward things electric, when I get a battery, I have the local hobby shop cut the connector off and solder on the EC3 connector that Park Zone uses, as that is what all my planes are. Some of the sites I mentioned have adapters that will get you from the battery connector type to what your plane requires, and that is a cheaper fix.
Now the next thing you have to deal with is charging your battery. The Park Zone batteries came with a charger that you plug into a cigarette lighter (so you can charge while at the field). There is a dial so you set the amount of volts, and a switch to select the number of cells, and off you go. Well having my charger charging in the car out in the driveway with the ignition turned on was not working for me, so I went shopping for a charger that would work off AC, and I could just plug in at my work bench. Surprisingly few chargers had this feature...most required an external power source, as they were primarily designed to be adapted to car batteries and other sources in the field. Again, a frustrating amount of choices and lingo that you have to learn in order to just get a charger. The one main term is "balancing". You want a charger that balances the cells equally (and hopefully lets you monitor each cell's progress), and that is apparently not a "given" in battery charger option land.
The same sites that have batteries have chargers, and through the recommendation of some guys I was flying with, I went with the Thunder AC6 ($43.95 at Hobby Partz). It can charge up to 6 cell batteries (something I had no idea I would ever need, but I was learning to try and think ahead) and several battery types (which has proven to be very helpful as I not only charge LiPo, but now am getting into glow planes where I need to charge the nickel cadmium on-board battery as well as the 12 volt battery that I use for the starter. There are chargers that charge multiple batteries at a time, and I thought about that, but the added expense was not worth it to me. Again, it will take research and talking to a lot of folks, but eventually the lingo begins to sink in, and you become somewhat conversant in what you want. I still don't understand how it works, but I know what to buy.
My charger has been a real workhorse! It has a mode where I can see the individual cells charge, and I can determine if there is anything irregular about the balancing. It came with several cables which I have adapted for different uses, and again, I can just plug it into the wall socket and go!
Now here's an important point....BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS! Just check out You Tube at look at the videos of batteries that have caught on fire while charging, or after flying, or a crash! We had a guy at our club charging off his car battery and the battery exploded, his car caught fire, and part of the covered staging area burned down! So remember....1) get a fire extinguisher, 2) you should be present (or in the vicinity) when your battery is charging, 3) you should charge them in a special battery bag (a fire resistant bag that retards an explosion or fire), 4) you should store them in something fire proof (I use an ammo can with holes drilled in the top to release any gasses), 5) DO NOT charge them too fast, 6) be sure to disconnect the battery immediately after flying, and 7) disconnect the battery as soon as you can after a crash! Something about impact makes the battery more unstable.
The general rule of thumb is you can charge your battery at an amperage rate of 1C, meaning 1 100th of the mAh. So if you have a 2200 mAh battery, you can charge at 2.2 amps. I was doing that for months, and finding that with relatively few charges, some batteries were swelling and puffing up....a sign that they are going bad, and I tossed them not wanting to take a chance. Think about it...with an electric plane if you lose your battery, you not only have no power, but you lose control of any maneuvering! No control of anything! There goes your plane over a $20 battery! It just isn't worth the risk!
Then a very experienced friend at my club heard me talking about this and asked what rate I was charging at. He said I was pushing them way too hard. His recommendation was that I should be charging at .8 amps, not 2.2! Well that takes up to 90 minutes to 2 hours per battery to recharge, but I will tell you, I have never had a battery swell on me since. Apparently if you want to get a lot of life out of your batteries, they will respond to slower charging rates and last you much longer! Again, being on a budget, that means a lot to me! SLOW CHARGING IS YOUR FRIEND!
As I said earlier, I am just now getting into the world of glow engines and planes, and that is a whole new learning curve in itself. I'm having fun, but it is very different. There is something incredibly simple and pure about plugging in a battery and flying! Not to mention the quiet! One of my favorite times to fly is early in the morning, before work, and the sun is rising, the birds are chirping and I'm all by myself flying my "bird" in absolute silence! It is the best!
Don't forget to set the timer on your radio so that you do not over extend your batteries. Start by setting it conservatively, and then when you re-charge, see how much you have put back into the battery. That will give you an idea how much flying time you can increase your timer by. You never want to go beyond 80% of the mAh of your battery, so again, on a 2200 mAh, you should not be recharging more than 1,760 mAh. I have accidentally done it, and done it bad, but when I do, I recharge, make sure the cells are balanced, and then make a note of the battery (I put a piece of tape with numbers on the bottom of each battery for I.D.). When I fly that battery the next time I only go about half the normal flying time and then recharge again. Usually all is back to normal.
You will also find that the amount of drain on your battery depends a lot on how high your throttle is, and for how long, the types of maneuvers your are doing, how high the wind is you're flying in, etc. You will begin to get a feel when you know you are pushing your battery harder and need to cut the time shorter, as opposed to when you are practicing approaches, and coming in at low throttle a lot and not using much power.
My apologies to those of you who know more about electricity and find this sophomoric! If I have made any gaffs, please leave a comment and I will edit! But again, I'm writing to those who are like me, and trusting there are a few of us out there!
Okay, so there's what little I know, and a whole lot that you are going to have to figure out for yourself, but hopefully I have narrowed the field of questions a bit. I think next time I'll discuss repairs....glues, epoxies, sanding, painting, balancing...how to turn those gut wrenching crashes into a resurrection!
So, here's what I do know. As I said, I have Park Zone warbirds, and they all fly on 11.1 volt, 3 cell, 2200 mAh, LiPo (lithium polymer) batteries (actually, my original planes came with 1800 mAh, but my most recent plane, the Thunderbolt P-47, came with a 2200). Lithium polymer batteries are the type that most foamies use. The ones that came with the plane were 25C rated, which, when I asked the guys at the hobby store, has something to do with the volume of electricity that can be released in bursts when needed. The higher the C rating, the more energy can be released. The batteries I had were fine, but being a guy who wants to have the best of everything I opted for 30C batteries after that, and have been happy.
Now there are a lot of battery brands out there, and I found that our local hobby store didn't have much on hand. I'm guessing they decided they couldn't compete with the online market, which are almost exclusively made in China. What little they did have were very expensive.
So then I researched brands by looking at chat groups like www.rcgroups.com, and checking out recommended sites for batteries and accessories like Hobby Partz (www.hobbypartz.com) and Hobby King (www.hobbyking.com). I'm sure there are a million sites and brands and the best suggestion I can make is to talk to those who fly a lot and get their recommendations. Nothing beats real endorsements from those who fly and recharge a lot of batteries.
Price is not always a way to determine anything....cheap batteries can have good reputations and expensive batteries can be lousy. I personally have settled on Gens Ace as a battery I have had good success with and it is the middle price point at around $26 from Hobby Partz. I also hear good things about Turnigy, have a couple that have worked well so far, and you can get those at Hobby King for about $12.
Another thing to consider is the connector type. There seems to be no agreement as to a standard connector for ESC's (the electronic speed controller your battery connects to which then connects to the motor) and the manufacturers of batteries. So again, not being inclined toward things electric, when I get a battery, I have the local hobby shop cut the connector off and solder on the EC3 connector that Park Zone uses, as that is what all my planes are. Some of the sites I mentioned have adapters that will get you from the battery connector type to what your plane requires, and that is a cheaper fix.
Now the next thing you have to deal with is charging your battery. The Park Zone batteries came with a charger that you plug into a cigarette lighter (so you can charge while at the field). There is a dial so you set the amount of volts, and a switch to select the number of cells, and off you go. Well having my charger charging in the car out in the driveway with the ignition turned on was not working for me, so I went shopping for a charger that would work off AC, and I could just plug in at my work bench. Surprisingly few chargers had this feature...most required an external power source, as they were primarily designed to be adapted to car batteries and other sources in the field. Again, a frustrating amount of choices and lingo that you have to learn in order to just get a charger. The one main term is "balancing". You want a charger that balances the cells equally (and hopefully lets you monitor each cell's progress), and that is apparently not a "given" in battery charger option land.
The same sites that have batteries have chargers, and through the recommendation of some guys I was flying with, I went with the Thunder AC6 ($43.95 at Hobby Partz). It can charge up to 6 cell batteries (something I had no idea I would ever need, but I was learning to try and think ahead) and several battery types (which has proven to be very helpful as I not only charge LiPo, but now am getting into glow planes where I need to charge the nickel cadmium on-board battery as well as the 12 volt battery that I use for the starter. There are chargers that charge multiple batteries at a time, and I thought about that, but the added expense was not worth it to me. Again, it will take research and talking to a lot of folks, but eventually the lingo begins to sink in, and you become somewhat conversant in what you want. I still don't understand how it works, but I know what to buy.
My charger has been a real workhorse! It has a mode where I can see the individual cells charge, and I can determine if there is anything irregular about the balancing. It came with several cables which I have adapted for different uses, and again, I can just plug it into the wall socket and go!
Now here's an important point....BATTERIES ARE DANGEROUS! Just check out You Tube at look at the videos of batteries that have caught on fire while charging, or after flying, or a crash! We had a guy at our club charging off his car battery and the battery exploded, his car caught fire, and part of the covered staging area burned down! So remember....1) get a fire extinguisher, 2) you should be present (or in the vicinity) when your battery is charging, 3) you should charge them in a special battery bag (a fire resistant bag that retards an explosion or fire), 4) you should store them in something fire proof (I use an ammo can with holes drilled in the top to release any gasses), 5) DO NOT charge them too fast, 6) be sure to disconnect the battery immediately after flying, and 7) disconnect the battery as soon as you can after a crash! Something about impact makes the battery more unstable.
The general rule of thumb is you can charge your battery at an amperage rate of 1C, meaning 1 100th of the mAh. So if you have a 2200 mAh battery, you can charge at 2.2 amps. I was doing that for months, and finding that with relatively few charges, some batteries were swelling and puffing up....a sign that they are going bad, and I tossed them not wanting to take a chance. Think about it...with an electric plane if you lose your battery, you not only have no power, but you lose control of any maneuvering! No control of anything! There goes your plane over a $20 battery! It just isn't worth the risk!
Then a very experienced friend at my club heard me talking about this and asked what rate I was charging at. He said I was pushing them way too hard. His recommendation was that I should be charging at .8 amps, not 2.2! Well that takes up to 90 minutes to 2 hours per battery to recharge, but I will tell you, I have never had a battery swell on me since. Apparently if you want to get a lot of life out of your batteries, they will respond to slower charging rates and last you much longer! Again, being on a budget, that means a lot to me! SLOW CHARGING IS YOUR FRIEND!
As I said earlier, I am just now getting into the world of glow engines and planes, and that is a whole new learning curve in itself. I'm having fun, but it is very different. There is something incredibly simple and pure about plugging in a battery and flying! Not to mention the quiet! One of my favorite times to fly is early in the morning, before work, and the sun is rising, the birds are chirping and I'm all by myself flying my "bird" in absolute silence! It is the best!
Don't forget to set the timer on your radio so that you do not over extend your batteries. Start by setting it conservatively, and then when you re-charge, see how much you have put back into the battery. That will give you an idea how much flying time you can increase your timer by. You never want to go beyond 80% of the mAh of your battery, so again, on a 2200 mAh, you should not be recharging more than 1,760 mAh. I have accidentally done it, and done it bad, but when I do, I recharge, make sure the cells are balanced, and then make a note of the battery (I put a piece of tape with numbers on the bottom of each battery for I.D.). When I fly that battery the next time I only go about half the normal flying time and then recharge again. Usually all is back to normal.
You will also find that the amount of drain on your battery depends a lot on how high your throttle is, and for how long, the types of maneuvers your are doing, how high the wind is you're flying in, etc. You will begin to get a feel when you know you are pushing your battery harder and need to cut the time shorter, as opposed to when you are practicing approaches, and coming in at low throttle a lot and not using much power.
My apologies to those of you who know more about electricity and find this sophomoric! If I have made any gaffs, please leave a comment and I will edit! But again, I'm writing to those who are like me, and trusting there are a few of us out there!
Okay, so there's what little I know, and a whole lot that you are going to have to figure out for yourself, but hopefully I have narrowed the field of questions a bit. I think next time I'll discuss repairs....glues, epoxies, sanding, painting, balancing...how to turn those gut wrenching crashes into a resurrection!
August 25, 2013
Radios:Things To Consider
If you have noticed, there is a theme running through these posts. I was interested in getting started in flying, but I knew from the outset that I was under a fairly tight budget. When I would get advice that caused me to re-think my plan, and take me beyond what I had originally budgeted, I tended to reject the suggestion and press on. However, in every case I can think of, there was wisdom in the advice that I eventually came around to embracing. I guess the lesson here is, yes, try and count your pennies (at least if you're on a limited budget like I am) but at the same time consider the long run, and make your purchases count. Having to purchase an upgrade within a year is painful in its own right!
So radios. I already shared that I thought the Phoenix simulator that came with a Spektrum Dx-5 was a great value because it not only taught me to fly, but it did so on the radio that I would eventually be using when I acquired my first plane. This is what happened. However, from almost day one I was hearing several long-timers telling me that one of the smartest things I could do would be to PURCHASE THE BEST RADIO I COULD AFFORD BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE LONG UNTIL I WOULD WANT, OR NEED, THE FEATURES THEY OFFERED. Again, this fell on deaf ears. I couldn't imagine having more than one plane for years, and I had no idea at all the benefits of things like expo, percentage of throw adjustments, multiple plane memory and on, and on.
So I sound like I'm contradicting myself, and maybe I am, but one day my good friend who had been with me from the beginning, gave me his old Spektrum Dx-6i as a present. I was blown away by his generosity, and once again, you will discover that RC pilots are a very giving and supportive group of friends. It is one of the blessings of the hobby!
He showed me the adjustments I just spoke of, and I of course, began playing with them on the simulator. What a difference! Expo is the ability to adjust the sensitivity of the sticks so that they don't react in a purely mathematical relationship to the input given. In other words, they can "soften" the effects of your inputs so that the stick is a bit more forgiving of jerks, or nervous pressures on the initial side of the input.
Then there is the percentage of aileron, rudder, and elevator that you allow, which sets the throws. This is important as too much can cause you to be tentative at how sensitive the reactions are, and too little can frustrate you as to non-responsiveness. Most manufacturers will give you recommended distances (in millimeters) for the control surface throws, and part of trimming your plane before a maiden flight should be to set up your plane to at least start with these recommended settings. It will fly more "balanced" and you will not feel like you're fighting it all the time.
For instance, I learned once I got the Dx-6 that the elevator setting was much lower than where I had it for my Corsair. I had been fighting my landings a lot...one of the prime problems being "porpoising"...where the plane has too much up elevator on landing, and once it touches down, bounces back up and you have to settle it down again, at which point it bounces up again. By reducing the amount of throw in the elevator, the same amount of input was giving less dramatic up elevator. This let me give enough to keep the plane level as I slowly reduced throttle, and let the plane settle down on the mains before cutting power. It made a dramatic, and instant, difference in the success of my landings!
The other factor was that the 6i had a memory for up to 10 planes. I had no plans for acquiring more planes than my Corsair, but as I shared, I succumbed to trying a micro T-28 to fly indoors, and after a while my wife gave her blessing on getting a full sized T-28 to improve my flying to repairing time ratio! Now I was up to 3, and the number has continued to grow. This ability to store your settings, play with different settings for your simulator planes as well (each real plane has its own simulator equivalent), is a huge time saver. I keep a document with all my settings recorded, so if anything happens, I have a record, and I am constantly adjusting and refining both the real planes and the simulation clones.
Finally, I don't know how it is where you are, but here there is a big feud between Spektrum and Futaba users. Both are fiercely devoted to their product of choice. I got into Spektrum due to the relationship with Park Zone (there is a compatibility need for the radio to match the receiver in the plane). I knew several who had Spektrum, and had only minor issues, all easily repaired. Futaba is more expensive, and again, was not compatible with the receivers in the planes I had, so it was not an issue. I suspect you will find the same thing, and I guess it just depends on the receiver you start with. If you want a Futaba, then you buy a plane that is "Plug and Play", meaning you buy the receiver you want and put it in the plane so it matches your radio. If you want a Spektrum compatible receiver, and you're getting a Horizon Hobby product, you can get a "Bind and Fly" version which means the receiver is already installed.
One other quick help...The radio I was given had some time on it, and at one point one of the trim tabs broke. As I researched online how to do that repair, so I could avoid sending my radio back to Horizon for a period of time, I came across a small company that manufactures replacement Spektrum machined aluminum trim tabs and "rollers" for setting the screen you're looking at. The company is East RC Parts, and their website is www.eastrc.org. You can get a single replacement for about $8, or a set for $25. The replacement is simple, tutorials are on You Tube, and they will never break again! Just a thought.
The last thing about radios is the number of channels. The basic channels you need are one for ailerons, one for elevator, one for rudder and one for throttle. A Dx-5 gives you that. As you begin to get into retractable landing gear, flaps, separate aileron controls, etc. (and you will) those extra channels for controlling those items will be necessary. Retractable gear only takes 1 channel, and so can flaps with a "Y harness" connecting the two flaps together. But eventually you will want separate channels for each aileron, and for each flap. Not to mention the better radios give you more program space for more models (something you don't believe you will need now, but it will happen). I am currently trying to figure out how to upgrade to an 8 channel. There's no end to how far you can go with it...it's just like planes, but the axiom remains...GET THE BEST RADIO YOU CAN AFFORD WHEN YOU START SO IT WILL LAST YOU AS LONG AS POSSIBLE!
Well, all for now. I think next time I'll talk about batteries.
So radios. I already shared that I thought the Phoenix simulator that came with a Spektrum Dx-5 was a great value because it not only taught me to fly, but it did so on the radio that I would eventually be using when I acquired my first plane. This is what happened. However, from almost day one I was hearing several long-timers telling me that one of the smartest things I could do would be to PURCHASE THE BEST RADIO I COULD AFFORD BECAUSE IT WOULD NOT BE LONG UNTIL I WOULD WANT, OR NEED, THE FEATURES THEY OFFERED. Again, this fell on deaf ears. I couldn't imagine having more than one plane for years, and I had no idea at all the benefits of things like expo, percentage of throw adjustments, multiple plane memory and on, and on.
So I sound like I'm contradicting myself, and maybe I am, but one day my good friend who had been with me from the beginning, gave me his old Spektrum Dx-6i as a present. I was blown away by his generosity, and once again, you will discover that RC pilots are a very giving and supportive group of friends. It is one of the blessings of the hobby!
He showed me the adjustments I just spoke of, and I of course, began playing with them on the simulator. What a difference! Expo is the ability to adjust the sensitivity of the sticks so that they don't react in a purely mathematical relationship to the input given. In other words, they can "soften" the effects of your inputs so that the stick is a bit more forgiving of jerks, or nervous pressures on the initial side of the input.
Then there is the percentage of aileron, rudder, and elevator that you allow, which sets the throws. This is important as too much can cause you to be tentative at how sensitive the reactions are, and too little can frustrate you as to non-responsiveness. Most manufacturers will give you recommended distances (in millimeters) for the control surface throws, and part of trimming your plane before a maiden flight should be to set up your plane to at least start with these recommended settings. It will fly more "balanced" and you will not feel like you're fighting it all the time.
For instance, I learned once I got the Dx-6 that the elevator setting was much lower than where I had it for my Corsair. I had been fighting my landings a lot...one of the prime problems being "porpoising"...where the plane has too much up elevator on landing, and once it touches down, bounces back up and you have to settle it down again, at which point it bounces up again. By reducing the amount of throw in the elevator, the same amount of input was giving less dramatic up elevator. This let me give enough to keep the plane level as I slowly reduced throttle, and let the plane settle down on the mains before cutting power. It made a dramatic, and instant, difference in the success of my landings!
The other factor was that the 6i had a memory for up to 10 planes. I had no plans for acquiring more planes than my Corsair, but as I shared, I succumbed to trying a micro T-28 to fly indoors, and after a while my wife gave her blessing on getting a full sized T-28 to improve my flying to repairing time ratio! Now I was up to 3, and the number has continued to grow. This ability to store your settings, play with different settings for your simulator planes as well (each real plane has its own simulator equivalent), is a huge time saver. I keep a document with all my settings recorded, so if anything happens, I have a record, and I am constantly adjusting and refining both the real planes and the simulation clones.
Finally, I don't know how it is where you are, but here there is a big feud between Spektrum and Futaba users. Both are fiercely devoted to their product of choice. I got into Spektrum due to the relationship with Park Zone (there is a compatibility need for the radio to match the receiver in the plane). I knew several who had Spektrum, and had only minor issues, all easily repaired. Futaba is more expensive, and again, was not compatible with the receivers in the planes I had, so it was not an issue. I suspect you will find the same thing, and I guess it just depends on the receiver you start with. If you want a Futaba, then you buy a plane that is "Plug and Play", meaning you buy the receiver you want and put it in the plane so it matches your radio. If you want a Spektrum compatible receiver, and you're getting a Horizon Hobby product, you can get a "Bind and Fly" version which means the receiver is already installed.
One other quick help...The radio I was given had some time on it, and at one point one of the trim tabs broke. As I researched online how to do that repair, so I could avoid sending my radio back to Horizon for a period of time, I came across a small company that manufactures replacement Spektrum machined aluminum trim tabs and "rollers" for setting the screen you're looking at. The company is East RC Parts, and their website is www.eastrc.org. You can get a single replacement for about $8, or a set for $25. The replacement is simple, tutorials are on You Tube, and they will never break again! Just a thought.
The last thing about radios is the number of channels. The basic channels you need are one for ailerons, one for elevator, one for rudder and one for throttle. A Dx-5 gives you that. As you begin to get into retractable landing gear, flaps, separate aileron controls, etc. (and you will) those extra channels for controlling those items will be necessary. Retractable gear only takes 1 channel, and so can flaps with a "Y harness" connecting the two flaps together. But eventually you will want separate channels for each aileron, and for each flap. Not to mention the better radios give you more program space for more models (something you don't believe you will need now, but it will happen). I am currently trying to figure out how to upgrade to an 8 channel. There's no end to how far you can go with it...it's just like planes, but the axiom remains...GET THE BEST RADIO YOU CAN AFFORD WHEN YOU START SO IT WILL LAST YOU AS LONG AS POSSIBLE!
Well, all for now. I think next time I'll talk about batteries.
August 19, 2013
Finding A Place To Fly
So once I had a plane, the next obvious question was "where do I go to fly it"? Now I have to stop here for a moment and point out that at virtually every step of my RC journey, my friend, the one who recommended the simulator, was there to tell me some advice that I would later come to take. But every time, I rejected it because either it was going to cost me more money (in the near term) or more time (or so I thought). Almost from the beginning I had heard him talk about the advantages of joining the local RC club...one which boasted a 600 foot paved runway, and an unobstructed span of acres in every direction. No, that would cost more money.
Okay, so there was a faction of enthusiasts who hung out at the local hobby shop who frequented a spot known as "Avenue G". It was 20 minutes from my house, and it too was acres of open space. It actually was adjacent to a game reserve. The downside was that the ground was composed of a rocky soil, one that was very hard on landing gear, and despite the efforts of volunteers like myself, it was subject to an infestation of thistles and weeds. I would periodically go out with my weed eater and try and knock them down, and go through a whole container of Round Up, but the reality was, the weeds were winning.
But as a starting point, I learned to take off, "fly in the box", shoot approaches for landings, get the feel for the distances of the glide path, and the amount of throttle needed to keep coming in without stalling. I had constant problems though with the Corsair's landing gear design. The plastic mounts in the wing, into which the wire struts snapped, had prongs that went deep into the foam of the wing. So with hard landings, the plastic would come out, and pull a lot of foam with it. This made re-gluing the plastic plate increasingly less satisfactory. One of the hobby store guys suggested making a balsa template that the plastic plate could glue onto. The balsa was epoxied in place for strength, and for the plastic plate I used CA glue. It tends to be more brittle, and if anything the plate would break away from the balsa, but the balsa would stay in place, thus protecting the integrity of the wing. This is a trick I have used ever since and still use as my Corsair has survived all this time!
So Avenue G was a start, but the leading edge of my wings were green and sticky from the weeds, and the constant repairs on my struts were getting old. There was also the fact that since the area was so open and unobstructed, there was always a wind blowing through that made things difficult for me. I was always told by pilots that I needed to make friends with the wind, And I can say that I feel that way now, but I assure you, as a beginner, I quickly learned that the wind was something that could rob my enjoyment in a heartbeat, and discretion was almost always the better part of valor.
My next stop was a Little League baseball complex. It was a central parking lot, nicely groomed out of crushed granite, and surrounded on all sides by playing fields. There were a couple of angles at which I could come into the parking lot, depending on the wind, but even then I had to dodge light posts, and come in over dug outs, fences, electrical boxes, 50 gallon drums, trees, and other obstacles. But after all the hassles of the rocky, rough ground at Avenue G, this lot was pure heaven! At least for a while.
I certainly didn't have near the problems with my gear as before, but I got stuck in a tree once, dove into a chain link fence (on take off as described in an earlier post), and many times misjudged the flare and broke a prop because I was not level enough, quickly enough. And again, there was the wind!
I constantly drove around looking for spots to fly. There were several subdivisions that were not completed...so there were just streets, lamp posts and sometimes power lines. But cars would inadvertently come out of nowhere, and there were often kids hanging around that wanted to chat and ask questions. I never really found anything workable.
Grass didn't seem to be an option for me. My planes didn't do well at all on grass. I suppose if it was cut right to the bare bone, it would be okay, but no public place I could find was that way. I see photos of some clubs that keep their runway on trimmed grass, but I have never found it here. So that would limit you to hand launching and belly landing, and as I said before, landings are the most fun part for me.
Almost every time I loaded the car with my plane and accessories, I would drive with expectation, studying the flags on flagpoles, or the streamers on car lots, or the tops of trees....always wondering how strong the winds would be. It was so frustrating to realize that yet another time it would be too windy for me to fly, but again, I had learned that trying to tough it out, only resulted in crashes and repairs, and not much flying time to show for it!
So after a few months of this, I went back to my friend to learn more about joining the club. There was a 3 month free trial period, so I signed up. You had to join the AMA (Aeronautical Modelers Association) which was about $50 annually, and then the dues themselves were another $50 annually. I don't think it took more than one trip to the club's field to realize that it was a bargain! Little did I know just how much joining that club would benefit me, not only in terms of a safe place to fly, but also the incredible kindness, generosity, and wisdom of the members I came to know there. As the commercial says, "priceless"!
So my advice to you is that if you have a club nearby, one that supports a field, join it! And if they don't require a membership with the AMA, I would get one anyway. The AMA is like the NRA for gun enthusiasts...they work to promote the hobby around the country, and when there are those pesky misunderstandings in Washington D.C., they are there to lobby congress to get things on the right path. Not to mention they put out a KILLER magazine...one that has beautiful shots and a ton of information.
So next time I'll discuss another recommendation made by my friend that I resisted at first, but came around to appreciate....radios!
Okay, so there was a faction of enthusiasts who hung out at the local hobby shop who frequented a spot known as "Avenue G". It was 20 minutes from my house, and it too was acres of open space. It actually was adjacent to a game reserve. The downside was that the ground was composed of a rocky soil, one that was very hard on landing gear, and despite the efforts of volunteers like myself, it was subject to an infestation of thistles and weeds. I would periodically go out with my weed eater and try and knock them down, and go through a whole container of Round Up, but the reality was, the weeds were winning.
But as a starting point, I learned to take off, "fly in the box", shoot approaches for landings, get the feel for the distances of the glide path, and the amount of throttle needed to keep coming in without stalling. I had constant problems though with the Corsair's landing gear design. The plastic mounts in the wing, into which the wire struts snapped, had prongs that went deep into the foam of the wing. So with hard landings, the plastic would come out, and pull a lot of foam with it. This made re-gluing the plastic plate increasingly less satisfactory. One of the hobby store guys suggested making a balsa template that the plastic plate could glue onto. The balsa was epoxied in place for strength, and for the plastic plate I used CA glue. It tends to be more brittle, and if anything the plate would break away from the balsa, but the balsa would stay in place, thus protecting the integrity of the wing. This is a trick I have used ever since and still use as my Corsair has survived all this time!
So Avenue G was a start, but the leading edge of my wings were green and sticky from the weeds, and the constant repairs on my struts were getting old. There was also the fact that since the area was so open and unobstructed, there was always a wind blowing through that made things difficult for me. I was always told by pilots that I needed to make friends with the wind, And I can say that I feel that way now, but I assure you, as a beginner, I quickly learned that the wind was something that could rob my enjoyment in a heartbeat, and discretion was almost always the better part of valor.
My next stop was a Little League baseball complex. It was a central parking lot, nicely groomed out of crushed granite, and surrounded on all sides by playing fields. There were a couple of angles at which I could come into the parking lot, depending on the wind, but even then I had to dodge light posts, and come in over dug outs, fences, electrical boxes, 50 gallon drums, trees, and other obstacles. But after all the hassles of the rocky, rough ground at Avenue G, this lot was pure heaven! At least for a while.
I certainly didn't have near the problems with my gear as before, but I got stuck in a tree once, dove into a chain link fence (on take off as described in an earlier post), and many times misjudged the flare and broke a prop because I was not level enough, quickly enough. And again, there was the wind!
I constantly drove around looking for spots to fly. There were several subdivisions that were not completed...so there were just streets, lamp posts and sometimes power lines. But cars would inadvertently come out of nowhere, and there were often kids hanging around that wanted to chat and ask questions. I never really found anything workable.
Grass didn't seem to be an option for me. My planes didn't do well at all on grass. I suppose if it was cut right to the bare bone, it would be okay, but no public place I could find was that way. I see photos of some clubs that keep their runway on trimmed grass, but I have never found it here. So that would limit you to hand launching and belly landing, and as I said before, landings are the most fun part for me.
Almost every time I loaded the car with my plane and accessories, I would drive with expectation, studying the flags on flagpoles, or the streamers on car lots, or the tops of trees....always wondering how strong the winds would be. It was so frustrating to realize that yet another time it would be too windy for me to fly, but again, I had learned that trying to tough it out, only resulted in crashes and repairs, and not much flying time to show for it!
So after a few months of this, I went back to my friend to learn more about joining the club. There was a 3 month free trial period, so I signed up. You had to join the AMA (Aeronautical Modelers Association) which was about $50 annually, and then the dues themselves were another $50 annually. I don't think it took more than one trip to the club's field to realize that it was a bargain! Little did I know just how much joining that club would benefit me, not only in terms of a safe place to fly, but also the incredible kindness, generosity, and wisdom of the members I came to know there. As the commercial says, "priceless"!
So my advice to you is that if you have a club nearby, one that supports a field, join it! And if they don't require a membership with the AMA, I would get one anyway. The AMA is like the NRA for gun enthusiasts...they work to promote the hobby around the country, and when there are those pesky misunderstandings in Washington D.C., they are there to lobby congress to get things on the right path. Not to mention they put out a KILLER magazine...one that has beautiful shots and a ton of information.
So next time I'll discuss another recommendation made by my friend that I resisted at first, but came around to appreciate....radios!
August 16, 2013
Purchasing My First Plane
As I mentioned in previous posts, I knew when I started all this that I was operating under a budget. Looking at balsa planes, and gas engines, the cost was just too prohibitive for me, so I knew I would be in the foam electrics (foamies). As I said earlier, I decided a simulator would be a wise start, and along with that came a radio, but after about 50 hours on the simulator (3 months later) it was time to make a purchase of a plane and start flying! I had been researching planes at my local hobby store, and searching the web. There are several sites, just Google Radio Control Planes and you will see, and many have reviews posted by consumers that give you great information on the experience level required by the pilot as well as candid reviews of the product and support.
Support was a big deal for me. My local hobby shop was great, and they recommended certain brands, and I later came to learn that the level of support from online locations, while their products were more affordable, was atrocious! Believe me, the hassle and cost of trying to resolve product issues can easily take away the satisfaction of any discount you may have obtained in the first place. Not to mention scarcity of parts. If you go with some online outfits, you are at their mercy when it comes to availability of parts, and if you are just starting, and have a limited number of planes to fly, there can nothing more frustrating than being grounded due to a lack of parts (not to mention shipping issues). My personal choice was Park Zone, a subsidiary of Horizon Hobby (www.horizonhobby.com). They had a wide array of foam planes, including the warbirds I cherished so much, and their reputation for customer support was renowned. Their parts were always stocked at my local hobby store. They are not the cheapest on the market, but they have certainly proven to me that their support and parts availability has more than been worth it. They have a call center for support, staffed by knowledgeable techs, I always get a quick response, and more than once I have had issues where they have sent replacement parts with almost no questions asked.
As I said, I chose the Phoenix simulator because it featured the Park Zone planes, and while I dabbled in many different planes for fun, I found myself falling in love with the F4U Corsair. I seemed to fly so beautifully and I just loved the history and back story on the plane itself.
As I talked with the Hobby shop guys, they were concerned that I was getting in over my head for a first plane. They cautioned me that it was not for beginners, but I was confident that my simulator experience would make up for that (lesson here: big mistake. Remember....simulators are not real!). The recommendations I heard most were the Super Cub (the plane I mentioned that has no ailerons, and turns by rudder only) and the Trojan T-28. I knew I would get bored with the Super Cub, and I didn't have the money to buy another plane in a couple of months, and the fact was I just wanted the Corsair. So that is what I got.
I won't say it was a total mistake, but pretty close! Corsairs are notoriously difficult to land...probably due to the unique wing design, and this model was no exception. I learned that for successful landings you have to "fly it all the way in" , meaning you have to come in fairly fast. More forgiving planes will allow you to cut the power and come in "dead stick", without power, more slowly, and give you more time to react. Also, the tricycle gear of the T-28 is easier to land than a tail dragger. And take off, for that matter.
So I bought my Corsair and off I went. On the maiden flight I had my friend, the one who told me about simulators, come with me to take it up for the first time, trim it out, and be there for moral support. On the first flight, we got it up, he tweaked it some and handed it over to me. What a rush! I was scared stiff, but my simulator training was kicking in and I was feeling okay. For a minute or two. Then I began to feel something wasn't right , and as I handed it back to my friend, the plane managed to find the one tree in the field we were flying over! I was devastated. My brand new plane had torn off a wing, and was scared up pretty bad. My friend was calm and said all would be fine. He scooped up the parts and off we went to his shop. My first flight, my new plane, and it was shattered! A feeling, by the way, that you will need to come to terms with. Crashing is inevitable, and if you are a perfectionist like me, that will come hard. But foamies are amazingly repairable! Really! That is one of their advantages!
Sure enough, to my surprise, with epoxy and CA glues (a topic for another time) it did look really good. But for weeks, even months after that there were literally constant repairs from crashes on almost every outing. My former modeling skills came into play as I learned to use the glues, sculpt the excess away with a Dremmel, and then air brush the damage. The plane always seemed to fly as well after, which amazed me. There were some serious crashes that required new wings, but here is where the Horizon support was so great because the parts were always available, and their online support techs helped with questions I had on how to get things back together.
At some point my wife finally intervened and pointed out that I had gotten into RC so that I could fly, and not spend so much time building. She graciously encouraged me to get the T-28 so that I could master the flying (landing) and spend less time repairing. (Note: an understanding wife is a critical aspect of this hobby, believe me!).
So I ran to the hobby store and got a T-28. What a difference! I was feeling suddenly like a seasoned pilot. I could land almost every time without incident (although I went through quite a few props) and now I was spending time learning to fly. I was always wary of the wind...it was something that I had not yet become friendly with, and it was frustrating to wait for days that were calm. But I was getting better, and more quickly. My Corsair waited patiently. Occasionally I would break it out and give it a try, but always with a new respect for the difficulty of landing it.
So all of this to say, when choosing your first plane, yes, if you have simulator experience, that will help you jump up a notch in terms of difficulty. But do not underestimate the realities of what it will be like to fly, land, and take off under real conditions. I'm all for jumping right to a plane with ailerons, but something like the T-28 is probably the better way to start.
Now there are also Micro versions of these planes on the market. Yes, they are cheaper, and yes I did try one....a T-28. However, I found that outdoors, any wind at all (and I mean ANY wind) made them very difficult to control. And my hobby store had a semi-monthly indoor fly-in at an armory, and I quickly learned that a gaggle of planes and helicopters flying in tight circles made it almost impossible to escape without collision damage that was due to no fault of my own. By definition, they are more fragile, less sophisticated in their electronics and design, and besides, I just liked to have room to fly. Some guys love them. That's just my opinion.
Next time I'll talk about another important component to your first flights...finding a suitable location!
Support was a big deal for me. My local hobby shop was great, and they recommended certain brands, and I later came to learn that the level of support from online locations, while their products were more affordable, was atrocious! Believe me, the hassle and cost of trying to resolve product issues can easily take away the satisfaction of any discount you may have obtained in the first place. Not to mention scarcity of parts. If you go with some online outfits, you are at their mercy when it comes to availability of parts, and if you are just starting, and have a limited number of planes to fly, there can nothing more frustrating than being grounded due to a lack of parts (not to mention shipping issues). My personal choice was Park Zone, a subsidiary of Horizon Hobby (www.horizonhobby.com). They had a wide array of foam planes, including the warbirds I cherished so much, and their reputation for customer support was renowned. Their parts were always stocked at my local hobby store. They are not the cheapest on the market, but they have certainly proven to me that their support and parts availability has more than been worth it. They have a call center for support, staffed by knowledgeable techs, I always get a quick response, and more than once I have had issues where they have sent replacement parts with almost no questions asked.
As I said, I chose the Phoenix simulator because it featured the Park Zone planes, and while I dabbled in many different planes for fun, I found myself falling in love with the F4U Corsair. I seemed to fly so beautifully and I just loved the history and back story on the plane itself.
As I talked with the Hobby shop guys, they were concerned that I was getting in over my head for a first plane. They cautioned me that it was not for beginners, but I was confident that my simulator experience would make up for that (lesson here: big mistake. Remember....simulators are not real!). The recommendations I heard most were the Super Cub (the plane I mentioned that has no ailerons, and turns by rudder only) and the Trojan T-28. I knew I would get bored with the Super Cub, and I didn't have the money to buy another plane in a couple of months, and the fact was I just wanted the Corsair. So that is what I got.
I won't say it was a total mistake, but pretty close! Corsairs are notoriously difficult to land...probably due to the unique wing design, and this model was no exception. I learned that for successful landings you have to "fly it all the way in" , meaning you have to come in fairly fast. More forgiving planes will allow you to cut the power and come in "dead stick", without power, more slowly, and give you more time to react. Also, the tricycle gear of the T-28 is easier to land than a tail dragger. And take off, for that matter.
So I bought my Corsair and off I went. On the maiden flight I had my friend, the one who told me about simulators, come with me to take it up for the first time, trim it out, and be there for moral support. On the first flight, we got it up, he tweaked it some and handed it over to me. What a rush! I was scared stiff, but my simulator training was kicking in and I was feeling okay. For a minute or two. Then I began to feel something wasn't right , and as I handed it back to my friend, the plane managed to find the one tree in the field we were flying over! I was devastated. My brand new plane had torn off a wing, and was scared up pretty bad. My friend was calm and said all would be fine. He scooped up the parts and off we went to his shop. My first flight, my new plane, and it was shattered! A feeling, by the way, that you will need to come to terms with. Crashing is inevitable, and if you are a perfectionist like me, that will come hard. But foamies are amazingly repairable! Really! That is one of their advantages!
Sure enough, to my surprise, with epoxy and CA glues (a topic for another time) it did look really good. But for weeks, even months after that there were literally constant repairs from crashes on almost every outing. My former modeling skills came into play as I learned to use the glues, sculpt the excess away with a Dremmel, and then air brush the damage. The plane always seemed to fly as well after, which amazed me. There were some serious crashes that required new wings, but here is where the Horizon support was so great because the parts were always available, and their online support techs helped with questions I had on how to get things back together.
At some point my wife finally intervened and pointed out that I had gotten into RC so that I could fly, and not spend so much time building. She graciously encouraged me to get the T-28 so that I could master the flying (landing) and spend less time repairing. (Note: an understanding wife is a critical aspect of this hobby, believe me!).
So I ran to the hobby store and got a T-28. What a difference! I was feeling suddenly like a seasoned pilot. I could land almost every time without incident (although I went through quite a few props) and now I was spending time learning to fly. I was always wary of the wind...it was something that I had not yet become friendly with, and it was frustrating to wait for days that were calm. But I was getting better, and more quickly. My Corsair waited patiently. Occasionally I would break it out and give it a try, but always with a new respect for the difficulty of landing it.
So all of this to say, when choosing your first plane, yes, if you have simulator experience, that will help you jump up a notch in terms of difficulty. But do not underestimate the realities of what it will be like to fly, land, and take off under real conditions. I'm all for jumping right to a plane with ailerons, but something like the T-28 is probably the better way to start.
Now there are also Micro versions of these planes on the market. Yes, they are cheaper, and yes I did try one....a T-28. However, I found that outdoors, any wind at all (and I mean ANY wind) made them very difficult to control. And my hobby store had a semi-monthly indoor fly-in at an armory, and I quickly learned that a gaggle of planes and helicopters flying in tight circles made it almost impossible to escape without collision damage that was due to no fault of my own. By definition, they are more fragile, less sophisticated in their electronics and design, and besides, I just liked to have room to fly. Some guys love them. That's just my opinion.
Next time I'll talk about another important component to your first flights...finding a suitable location!
August 13, 2013
Flight Basic Principles
This topic is a tough one to tackle, for a variety of reasons. First, I am not an aeronautical engineer, and second you don't want to read something written by one, even if I was! But it is important to understand that if you're going to be flying a plane, you have to understand some basic things about flight if you're going to be successful. It is not the same as driving a car! Chances are, if you have been fascinated by planes, and have been around them much, you have picked up this stuff, but just in case I'll touch on a couple of key concepts and then point you to a book that is great if you want more.
First, unlike driving a car there is the added dimension of "up and down" (altitude). It's not just turning a wheel to go left or right. Planes have what are called "control surfaces", meaning parts that move to control the direction of the aircraft. Ailerons are in the trailing edge of each wing and they affect the banking of a plane that primarily turns it. Then there is the vertical stabilizer, the portion of the tail that sticks straight up, and the trailing edge of that is the rudder. The rudder is a control surface that pivots the plane, or maybe better, slides it, left or right. The rudder works with the ailerons for a complete, balanced turn, or bank. And finally, also part of the tail is the horizontal stabilizer, the trailing edge of which is the elevator. The elevator, as the name implies, has a direct affect on pitching the plane upwards or downwards.
The thing that keeps a plane in the air is called "lift" and it is a function of airflow over and under the wings. The shape of the wings causes the airflow to pass under the wing faster than over the top, and thus creates a lifting of the plane. The faster the airflow, the more the lift. Here is an important principle that is hard to get at first. The thing which most affects the altitude of a plane, at least in the long run, is speed. Speed translates to the amount of lift. So as you are landing, for instance, you are controlling the elevator to keep the nose pointed in the upward attitude you desire, but the throttle is ultimately what determines your descent. You slowly decrease the throttle, holding the correct attitude with the elevator, and gently descend to the runway. Learning to control the throttle, and hence the altitude, as you land is a critical skill, and can be counterintuitive to new pilots.
Think of it this way. If all things are equal and you are flying straight and level, and you increase the throttle, you will continue to fly level, but your altitude will begin to increase, due to lift. The same is true in reverse as you decrease the throttle. Adjustments to the elevator have an immediate effect on this, as you can go into a dive or climb for the short term, but I'm trying to isolate a basic principle.
Now here's an even tougher concept....the elevator controls speed. You would think it is the throttle, and yes increasing the throttle does increase both speed and altitude, but increasing the elevator, and thus raising the nose of the plane increases what is called the "angle of attack". If you pull up on the elevator, and do nothing with the throttle, you will cause the nose to raise, and the aircraft will slow, and begin to descend. Raise the nose too much and you go into what is called a "stall", where the plane's wings are not level enough, and not getting enough airflow over them to create lift, and the plane drops down, nose first.
My final analogy that I hope illustrates this are fighter jets. I used to work across from Mira Mar Naval Air Station, and I would watch the F-14's do touch and go's all day. They flew very nose high (high angle of attack), with lots of throttle. You could hear the pilots working the throttle constantly to keep enough altitude, while holding the nose as high as possible to keep it flying slow for a simulated carrier landing. It looked like they were "plowing" through the air, as opposed to graceful flight. They were right on the edge of stalling, but it kept their speed slow as they didn't have a lot of runway (on a carrier) to handle a long rollout.
So I told you this would get dry quickly!
Here's a book that was recommended to me that covers all of this, and interestingly was first copyrighted in 1944. It is called "Stick and Rudder", by Wolfgang Langeweische. It was recommended to me by my Navy pilot friend I mentioned in my first post as being the concepts used by them in their instruction. You can get it on Amazon for between $15-$20. It will go into great detail, but it does cover the basics and will make you a better pilot... probably with less crashes!
Next time I'll keep away from the technical stuff, I promise! I think I'll talk about my first purchase of a plane....
First, unlike driving a car there is the added dimension of "up and down" (altitude). It's not just turning a wheel to go left or right. Planes have what are called "control surfaces", meaning parts that move to control the direction of the aircraft. Ailerons are in the trailing edge of each wing and they affect the banking of a plane that primarily turns it. Then there is the vertical stabilizer, the portion of the tail that sticks straight up, and the trailing edge of that is the rudder. The rudder is a control surface that pivots the plane, or maybe better, slides it, left or right. The rudder works with the ailerons for a complete, balanced turn, or bank. And finally, also part of the tail is the horizontal stabilizer, the trailing edge of which is the elevator. The elevator, as the name implies, has a direct affect on pitching the plane upwards or downwards.
The thing that keeps a plane in the air is called "lift" and it is a function of airflow over and under the wings. The shape of the wings causes the airflow to pass under the wing faster than over the top, and thus creates a lifting of the plane. The faster the airflow, the more the lift. Here is an important principle that is hard to get at first. The thing which most affects the altitude of a plane, at least in the long run, is speed. Speed translates to the amount of lift. So as you are landing, for instance, you are controlling the elevator to keep the nose pointed in the upward attitude you desire, but the throttle is ultimately what determines your descent. You slowly decrease the throttle, holding the correct attitude with the elevator, and gently descend to the runway. Learning to control the throttle, and hence the altitude, as you land is a critical skill, and can be counterintuitive to new pilots.
Think of it this way. If all things are equal and you are flying straight and level, and you increase the throttle, you will continue to fly level, but your altitude will begin to increase, due to lift. The same is true in reverse as you decrease the throttle. Adjustments to the elevator have an immediate effect on this, as you can go into a dive or climb for the short term, but I'm trying to isolate a basic principle.
Now here's an even tougher concept....the elevator controls speed. You would think it is the throttle, and yes increasing the throttle does increase both speed and altitude, but increasing the elevator, and thus raising the nose of the plane increases what is called the "angle of attack". If you pull up on the elevator, and do nothing with the throttle, you will cause the nose to raise, and the aircraft will slow, and begin to descend. Raise the nose too much and you go into what is called a "stall", where the plane's wings are not level enough, and not getting enough airflow over them to create lift, and the plane drops down, nose first.
My final analogy that I hope illustrates this are fighter jets. I used to work across from Mira Mar Naval Air Station, and I would watch the F-14's do touch and go's all day. They flew very nose high (high angle of attack), with lots of throttle. You could hear the pilots working the throttle constantly to keep enough altitude, while holding the nose as high as possible to keep it flying slow for a simulated carrier landing. It looked like they were "plowing" through the air, as opposed to graceful flight. They were right on the edge of stalling, but it kept their speed slow as they didn't have a lot of runway (on a carrier) to handle a long rollout.
So I told you this would get dry quickly!
Next time I'll keep away from the technical stuff, I promise! I think I'll talk about my first purchase of a plane....
August 9, 2013
Flight Simulators, Pros and Cons
So last time I shared how my first interaction with a friend who was into RC taught me my first axiom...GET A SIMULATOR. Just the few minutes I spent trying to take off, bank, roll, and especially land, proved his point that this was going to be an acquired skill that was going to take some trial and error. And given my limited budget, error was a costly alternative.
So I reconciled myself to the fact that I was going to have to postpone my time line and get the basics down. And here is where I picked up my second piece of critical advice. On one of my many junkets to the local hobby store, the owner shared with me a gem of advice. "PUT YOURSELF IN THE COCKPIT", he said. It seems obvious at first, but I can't tell you how many times I have overheard guys teaching new flyers by using the third person perspective. "Now when the plane is coming at you, and you want to make it go to your left, then push the stick to your right". It is like memorizing a set of rules and then over time making them a muscle memory. What the owner of the store said was so simple, and it was what I wanted to experience...being the pilot! So as I ventured into the realm of simulation, I never forgot that my goal was to "be" in the plane, in whatever maneuver it was doing, and that would guide my instincts on which inputs to give the controls.
Now as I said before, everyone has their opinion, and heaven knows there are a zillion simulators to choose from. I chose the Phoenix Simulator, from Horizon Hobby (www.horizonhobby.com), and here's why. First, as I looked at the foam park flyers that were in my starter price range, the Horizon options seemed the best. They were more expensive, but they had a great reputation for quality and I would learn later, their support is unrivaled. The Phoenix simulator featured all of their mainstay planes as choices on their simulation, so I figured it would help me to decide which would be my first plane to purchase.
Next, and this was huge, the package came with a Spektrum DX-5 radio...an actual radio that I could later use with my first plane. The pricing of the simulator practically forced me to get it, as the program, with radio, was $175, and the radio alone was $60. To get the program with no radio was $130. Some of the other simulators have cables that will connect with your computer from whatever radio you already have, and others, like the one my friend had, just have a controller that is like a radio, but not actually useable as one. Again, magazines and the internet will give you a plethora of choices, but this is what I got, and I have been very happy with it.
At this point I should mention that the idea of a simulator was not well received at the hobby store, and elsewhere. Many I talked to "Poo Pooed" the need for simulators, saying that they just were not a legitimate substitute for the real thing. Their recommendation was to get a trainer plane, like the Park Zone Super Cub, that do not have ailerons, and turn using a rudder only. This prevents acute maneuvers and gets a beginner into the air with relatively low risk. The problem for me is that I am impatient, and I couldn't see myself being content with a plane like that for more than a month, so I wanted to get into the warbirds as fast as I could. Hence, the simulator.
I was also intrigued as I read the reviews online of the planes I was contemplating as my first purchase. Many would comment that a particular plane was not a good first plane, unless you had some simulation time. Others would talk about how many hours they had on a simulator before they purchased this plane, and how it turned out for them as a result. All of this was reassuring that I was on the right path, and I continued to research my dream planes as I waded into simulation.
It was Christmas, and the perfect time to get started. My simulator as my present, and I had some Holiday time to get started. I chose The Super Cub (ironically) as the first plane to fly, but I did get bored with it quickly and was soon playing with the Corsair, Spitfire, Thunderbolt, Bf-109, and others. The program offered tutorials on stunt maneuvers, games to play (lasar tag, balloon busting, and bomb dropping), and great training features like landing practice. I love landings! To me there's nothing more satisfying than greasing a smooth landing. It's like art! So needless to say, I was attracted to spending hours practicing and perfecting landings.
I started a log book, and tracked the hours I had. I'm currently up to 320 hours (a year and a half later), and I track my flight time in each of my planes too. But always, I was IN THE COCKPIT. The perspective of being at the controls in the plane and not watching the plane from a distance, was my constant goal. Soon enough it began to become second nature and it was thrilling to make the necessary corrections as purely second nature!
The simulator has been a great friend. When I get a new plane I use it to help me figure out the flight characteristics and learn that plane more quickly. I set the wind and weather features to match the conditions I find myself in so that I will not be intimidated by winds and cross winds. And yes, I practice landings with it to prepare me for the real thing!
Now I have to say, there are some downsides to simulation. IT'S NOT REAL! No matter how hard you try, and utilize all the available aspects of the program, there's no exact replication of what you will encounter when you go flying.
And, there can be dire consequences for those variances. For instance, the first plane I purchased was the Corsair (a presumptive error that I will talk about later). On the simulator it would take off with almost 1/2 throttle no problem. One day I was at a baseball field, surrounded by chain link fence, and as I was taking off, to my horror, the plane was beginning to stall and pitch to the right. I was unable to recover and it went into the fence like a "Veg-A Matic"! It wasn't until later that I realized I had acquired the bad habit of not being more aggressive on my throttle on take off due to the simulator.
So enough on simulators for now. They're not for everybody, but mine has saved me a ton of money. Not that I still haven't found ways to spend lots of money, but if money comes hard to you as it does for me, it is worth the delayed gratification to get your skills down!
Speaking of which, if you're going to fly, there are some basics to flight that you need to become acquainted with. It's not the same as driving a car. That will be the subject of my next chapter.....
So I reconciled myself to the fact that I was going to have to postpone my time line and get the basics down. And here is where I picked up my second piece of critical advice. On one of my many junkets to the local hobby store, the owner shared with me a gem of advice. "PUT YOURSELF IN THE COCKPIT", he said. It seems obvious at first, but I can't tell you how many times I have overheard guys teaching new flyers by using the third person perspective. "Now when the plane is coming at you, and you want to make it go to your left, then push the stick to your right". It is like memorizing a set of rules and then over time making them a muscle memory. What the owner of the store said was so simple, and it was what I wanted to experience...being the pilot! So as I ventured into the realm of simulation, I never forgot that my goal was to "be" in the plane, in whatever maneuver it was doing, and that would guide my instincts on which inputs to give the controls.
Now as I said before, everyone has their opinion, and heaven knows there are a zillion simulators to choose from. I chose the Phoenix Simulator, from Horizon Hobby (www.horizonhobby.com), and here's why. First, as I looked at the foam park flyers that were in my starter price range, the Horizon options seemed the best. They were more expensive, but they had a great reputation for quality and I would learn later, their support is unrivaled. The Phoenix simulator featured all of their mainstay planes as choices on their simulation, so I figured it would help me to decide which would be my first plane to purchase.
Next, and this was huge, the package came with a Spektrum DX-5 radio...an actual radio that I could later use with my first plane. The pricing of the simulator practically forced me to get it, as the program, with radio, was $175, and the radio alone was $60. To get the program with no radio was $130. Some of the other simulators have cables that will connect with your computer from whatever radio you already have, and others, like the one my friend had, just have a controller that is like a radio, but not actually useable as one. Again, magazines and the internet will give you a plethora of choices, but this is what I got, and I have been very happy with it.
At this point I should mention that the idea of a simulator was not well received at the hobby store, and elsewhere. Many I talked to "Poo Pooed" the need for simulators, saying that they just were not a legitimate substitute for the real thing. Their recommendation was to get a trainer plane, like the Park Zone Super Cub, that do not have ailerons, and turn using a rudder only. This prevents acute maneuvers and gets a beginner into the air with relatively low risk. The problem for me is that I am impatient, and I couldn't see myself being content with a plane like that for more than a month, so I wanted to get into the warbirds as fast as I could. Hence, the simulator.
I was also intrigued as I read the reviews online of the planes I was contemplating as my first purchase. Many would comment that a particular plane was not a good first plane, unless you had some simulation time. Others would talk about how many hours they had on a simulator before they purchased this plane, and how it turned out for them as a result. All of this was reassuring that I was on the right path, and I continued to research my dream planes as I waded into simulation.
It was Christmas, and the perfect time to get started. My simulator as my present, and I had some Holiday time to get started. I chose The Super Cub (ironically) as the first plane to fly, but I did get bored with it quickly and was soon playing with the Corsair, Spitfire, Thunderbolt, Bf-109, and others. The program offered tutorials on stunt maneuvers, games to play (lasar tag, balloon busting, and bomb dropping), and great training features like landing practice. I love landings! To me there's nothing more satisfying than greasing a smooth landing. It's like art! So needless to say, I was attracted to spending hours practicing and perfecting landings.
I started a log book, and tracked the hours I had. I'm currently up to 320 hours (a year and a half later), and I track my flight time in each of my planes too. But always, I was IN THE COCKPIT. The perspective of being at the controls in the plane and not watching the plane from a distance, was my constant goal. Soon enough it began to become second nature and it was thrilling to make the necessary corrections as purely second nature!
The simulator has been a great friend. When I get a new plane I use it to help me figure out the flight characteristics and learn that plane more quickly. I set the wind and weather features to match the conditions I find myself in so that I will not be intimidated by winds and cross winds. And yes, I practice landings with it to prepare me for the real thing!
Now I have to say, there are some downsides to simulation. IT'S NOT REAL! No matter how hard you try, and utilize all the available aspects of the program, there's no exact replication of what you will encounter when you go flying.
And, there can be dire consequences for those variances. For instance, the first plane I purchased was the Corsair (a presumptive error that I will talk about later). On the simulator it would take off with almost 1/2 throttle no problem. One day I was at a baseball field, surrounded by chain link fence, and as I was taking off, to my horror, the plane was beginning to stall and pitch to the right. I was unable to recover and it went into the fence like a "Veg-A Matic"! It wasn't until later that I realized I had acquired the bad habit of not being more aggressive on my throttle on take off due to the simulator.
So enough on simulators for now. They're not for everybody, but mine has saved me a ton of money. Not that I still haven't found ways to spend lots of money, but if money comes hard to you as it does for me, it is worth the delayed gratification to get your skills down!
Speaking of which, if you're going to fly, there are some basics to flight that you need to become acquainted with. It's not the same as driving a car. That will be the subject of my next chapter.....
August 7, 2013
Getting Started In Radio Control
So I guess it was about a year and a half ago that I was at my shop bench, trying to complete a plastic model kit I had been working on for months, when it hit me. Why do I spend so much time and energy building planes I can only look at? Why not learn to actually fly planes? Just imagine...I could put a plane in my car and spend the hours flying something instead of looking at it and pretending!
Within days I was at the local hobby store, gawking at the planes hanging from the ceiling, making note of prices, pestering the clerks for information on things like radios, batteries versus gas engines, foam versus balsa, etc., etc., etc. My head was swimming! But this was the beginning of my journey....there was no going back. I was going to be a pilot of radio control planes. I didn't know how yet, or what kind, or where, but it was going to happen.
I think there are a lot of guys like me. They just have this "thing" about airplanes. you can't explain it (especially to your wife), but there's just this magic about planes that soar and swoop and roll and yes, land and take off! I knew a guy who was a Navy pilot , just getting out of the service. He had been flying the S-3 Viking, and was hoping to get on with the airlines. I mean this guy had done night carrier landings and flown the A-4 Skyhawk and on and on, and yet when he talked about planes his eyes lit up like a kid and he was as excited as anyone I had ever seen! He built models, and flew little Cessna 150's in his spare time...the guy couldn't get enough, and he was a Navy pilot! I realized then that the addiction was real!
All of the guys I have come to know through RC are like that too. They love planes. They love flying. Some like building, others just want something out of the box, but there's this attraction to the whole mystique of flight. But I digress....
I had a friend who I knew was into RC planes, and I decided to start with him. I met him at his office, and he turned on his computer, and opened a flight simulator program. Then he handed me a radio that was hooked to the computer, set up a plane on the airstrip and told me to go for it! It was hard. Much harder than I expected! I crashed about every minute, but I was undaunted. He gave me some basic pointers, but this was my first important piece of advice...START ON A SIMULATOR! He explained that the frustration of trying to keep the orientation of the plane as it was flying towards you, and the confusing aspects of getting used to which stick controlled the ailerons versus the throttle, would take time to master, and it would be much more cost effective to learn those things (and make those mistakes) without the expense of crashing every time.
I resisted this new revelation as I wanted to jump right in and get going, and I certainly was not counting on the additional expense of a simulator. But by "throwing me into the pool" so to speak, he had made his point, and I realized the wisdom of learning without risk until I had achieved a basic level of expertise.
I'm sure that for everything I share there will be someone out there to contradict me, but this is my experience, so I'll just get that out of the way right now! If you ask 10 devotees of RC what they think, you're sure to get 10 different opinions, and that's part of the fun of the hobby too. But this is my story, and hopefully my experiences will help you too.
Next time I'll talk about simulators...what kind I got, what is good, and what can be dangerous about them. In the meantime keep dreaming of the day you will be a pilot and not just a pretender!
Within days I was at the local hobby store, gawking at the planes hanging from the ceiling, making note of prices, pestering the clerks for information on things like radios, batteries versus gas engines, foam versus balsa, etc., etc., etc. My head was swimming! But this was the beginning of my journey....there was no going back. I was going to be a pilot of radio control planes. I didn't know how yet, or what kind, or where, but it was going to happen.
I think there are a lot of guys like me. They just have this "thing" about airplanes. you can't explain it (especially to your wife), but there's just this magic about planes that soar and swoop and roll and yes, land and take off! I knew a guy who was a Navy pilot , just getting out of the service. He had been flying the S-3 Viking, and was hoping to get on with the airlines. I mean this guy had done night carrier landings and flown the A-4 Skyhawk and on and on, and yet when he talked about planes his eyes lit up like a kid and he was as excited as anyone I had ever seen! He built models, and flew little Cessna 150's in his spare time...the guy couldn't get enough, and he was a Navy pilot! I realized then that the addiction was real!
All of the guys I have come to know through RC are like that too. They love planes. They love flying. Some like building, others just want something out of the box, but there's this attraction to the whole mystique of flight. But I digress....
I had a friend who I knew was into RC planes, and I decided to start with him. I met him at his office, and he turned on his computer, and opened a flight simulator program. Then he handed me a radio that was hooked to the computer, set up a plane on the airstrip and told me to go for it! It was hard. Much harder than I expected! I crashed about every minute, but I was undaunted. He gave me some basic pointers, but this was my first important piece of advice...START ON A SIMULATOR! He explained that the frustration of trying to keep the orientation of the plane as it was flying towards you, and the confusing aspects of getting used to which stick controlled the ailerons versus the throttle, would take time to master, and it would be much more cost effective to learn those things (and make those mistakes) without the expense of crashing every time.
I resisted this new revelation as I wanted to jump right in and get going, and I certainly was not counting on the additional expense of a simulator. But by "throwing me into the pool" so to speak, he had made his point, and I realized the wisdom of learning without risk until I had achieved a basic level of expertise.
I'm sure that for everything I share there will be someone out there to contradict me, but this is my experience, so I'll just get that out of the way right now! If you ask 10 devotees of RC what they think, you're sure to get 10 different opinions, and that's part of the fun of the hobby too. But this is my story, and hopefully my experiences will help you too.
Next time I'll talk about simulators...what kind I got, what is good, and what can be dangerous about them. In the meantime keep dreaming of the day you will be a pilot and not just a pretender!
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